Alpaca Fiber Carding Terms You Need to Know

What is the difference between woolen and worsted preparation in fiber processing?

Woolen preparation focuses on trapping air by keeping fibers disorganized for loft, whereas worsted preparation prioritizes parallel alignment to create smooth, dense yarn. You choose your method based on the desired drape and durability of the finished textile.

Use these categories to determine whether you need to card the fiber multiple times for a woolen batt or use a diz to pull combed top for a worsted finish.

How does the micron count of alpaca fleece influence the choice of carding equipment?

The micron count dictates the sensitivity required during the carding process, as finer fibers are prone to snapping under high tension. Alpaca fleece measuring 18 to 20 microns demands a carding cloth with very fine, flexible wire teeth to prevent the fiber from being shredded or stretched beyond its elastic limit. Conversely, coarser fleeces above 28 microns can withstand more aggressive drum speeds and higher tooth density without suffering structural damage.

For example, a high-quality Suri alpaca fleece with a low micron count requires a gentle touch and a lower TPI (teeth per inch) to preserve the characteristic luster and handle of the fiber. An exception exists when dealing with heavily felted or matted locks; even if the micron count is fine, you might need to use a flick carder by hand to open the locks before they ever touch the drum, as the mechanical stress of the carder would otherwise destroy the delicate fiber integrity.

What role does card clothing density play in preventing fiber breakage?

Higher tooth density distributes the mechanical stress across more points of contact, which prevents individual fibers from snapping under the strain of being pulled through the drum teeth.

• 120 TPI cloth works best for fine, high-micron alpaca because it provides more points of support for delicate fibers.
• 72 TPI cloth is better suited for coarser, thicker fibers that would simply clog or bend the finer wire teeth.
• Wire gauge matters because thinner wire flexes more, offering a gentler action that protects the integrity of soft, luxury-grade alpaca.
• Spacing patterns between teeth determine how much fiber is held, preventing the excessive tension that leads to breakage.

Why is the removal of vegetable matter essential before the carding process begins?

Removing vegetable matter is mandatory because bits of hay, straw, or burrs act as abrasive particles that catch on the carding teeth and tear the fiber as it passes through the drums. If you leave these contaminants in, they often get shredded into smaller, invisible particles that remain trapped inside your batt, making the final yarn scratchy and difficult to spin. A single burr can cause a chain reaction where fibers snag, build up, and create a thick, uneven clump that ruins the consistency of your roving.

One notable exception involves extremely clean, high-grade show fleeces that have been skirted rigorously on the shearing table. Even in these cases, you should still perform a final visual inspection under bright light, as microscopic bits of dust or chaff can still

How do carding drums align fibers to create a uniform roving?

The drums align fibers through the mechanical action of the card clothing, which catches individual hairs and pulls them into a parallel arrangement as the drums rotate at different speeds. The larger drum carries the fiber through the teeth, while the smaller licker-in drum controls the feed and removes excess material. Many people assume that carding drums are meant to remove all vegetable matter from the fleece, but carding is primarily for alignment. If you try to use the carder to clean dirty fiber, you’ll just grind the debris deeper into the roving.

What are the primary indicators that alpaca fiber has been over-carded?

Over-carded alpaca fiber loses its loft and structural integrity, appearing thin, brittle, and prone to snapping during the spinning process.

• Fiber breakage: Excessive passes through the drums cause the delicate alpaca scales to shear off, leading to a significant increase in short, flyaway fibers.
• Dull appearance: The natural luster of the fiber vanishes as the fibers become pulverized and matted rather than smooth and parallel.
• Weak tensile strength: You’ll notice the roving pulls apart with almost no resistance, making it nearly impossible to draft a consistent, strong yarn.
• Increased neps: The friction from repeated carding creates small, tight knots that are difficult to remove and result in a bumpy, uneven finished yarn.

How does the staple length of the fleece affect the settings on a drum carder?

Yes, shorter staples require a finer tooth density to prevent the fiber from falling through the clothing, while longer staples need more clearance between the drums. For fibers exceeding 5 inches, you must adjust the drum gap to at least 0.5 millimeters to avoid tearing the locks during the transfer.

What is the purpose of a diz in the post-carding stage of yarn preparation?

A diz is a small, concave tool used to pull fiber through a hole, which compresses the airy batt into a smooth, uniform roving or top. By controlling the tension and diameter of the draw, the diz makes sure the fiber remains consistent for spinning.

Select the diameter that matches your desired yarn weight, as a smaller hole forces the alpaca fibers into a tighter, more compact structure.